You can get blocks in any color or effect (such as pearl, amber, metallics, ivory, etc.). There is no point in having screw mounting hardware or medallions installed, of course. This must wait until the grip is at least 90% finished. Blocks are generally rectangular, but could be round or oval for grip caps and spacers. The line blurs between spacers and oval blocks, but rounded edged grip cap blanks are closer to the generic grip...not that it matters what you call it, of course. Blocks are quite generic...they don't necessarily fit anything, but they might be made to fit a vast range of different guns provided they are large enough. Some blocks are used for knife scales or for special projects having nothing to do with gun grips. |
Like the blocks and grip kits, you can order in any color or effect. These might be considered about 10% finished, with 90% of the work left to do. If you know your final grip will fit the outline and style of the blank (by comparing measurements) the blank will save time since it is closer to the final shape. The blanks differ from generic grips in not being curved or even roughly sanded to thickness and edge shape. They differ from blocks in being more closely cut out to the size and more closely tapered in general thickness. |
The thickness, shaping and fitting as well as the hole location would be up to you. size and the hole location. Same with medallion mounting. Different generic grips are offered for specific kinds of gun, such as generic two-panel full size autos, generic pocket pistols, generic grip caps and even generic sizes for Ruger Super Blackhawks or Freedom Arms revolvers. You may need to do some sawing or disk sanding at the base or top, to change angles or reduce height. Generics may work with completely different models, such as the Colt 1860 Army long frame and the Freedom Arms M83. |
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