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Uberti Cattleman 1-pc (3F)
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Quantity in Basket:
None
Code: Colt_3F
Price: $68.00
Shipping Weight: 0.20 pounds
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This grip set fits some versions of the Uberti Cattleman (but send a
tracing or carefully compare dimensions, as there is no
way to determine if YOUR particular Cattleman is the
same as any other, such as the one used to fit these
grips).
If you check the box that says you are NOT sending a tracing, all I can do is make the grip and ship it, with no way to tell whether your particular version of the gun actually has the same grip frame size or not. That's why I have the reminder that you would take that responsibiity if you don't want to send a pattern or tracing. The best way to make one is to trace the grip frame, by placing the gun on table and supporting the grip frame on a book, with the 3 x 5 index card under the frame. Stabilize the gun with another book under the barrel if you need to. Then hold the gun firmly and run a sharp pencil around the frame outline as far as you can.
Then cut out the tracing with scissors, and trim up the top so it fits into the frame properly. If you cut off too much, no problem, just tape it back on and re-trim. I don't have any problem with taped on bits so long as the actual outline fits your gun just like a grip should.
What I do is hold your pattern up to the mold or a grip I made in it, and see if your pattern fits with just a tiny bit of grip showing around it. That gives you a small amount of extra material to sand to precise fit and eliminates the need to try and make your pattern more precise than is possible with pencil and scissors. A regular fingernail sanding board works fine for this job. No special skill involved other than just patience to take a little off and try it, repeat until it fits exactly on the gun frame.
You can see that a one piece grip would be difficult or inpossible to trace accurately, but the frame itself is not so hard as long as you prop the gun up solidly, trace the side and bottonm, and then make the top of the pattern by taking trial cuts until you get it perfectly fitted. You can press the 3 x 5 card against the frame to get a better idea of where to trim the top, but of course the top is under the frame and you can't trace it along with the sides and bottom. It's not hard, just takes a little thought and maybe a couple of attempts to get it right. But it is worth the effort.
The default choice is the 3-piece kit, which you fit to
the frame and then fit and epoxy the spacer to the back
to create a 1-piece assembly. Or you can select the
screw mounting, but please send a tracing to indicate
where the screw must go through to avoid the spring in
your gun. In the absence of a tracing, all I can do
is put the hole where most of them go, and hope for the
best. It might even work in your gun if you are lucky!
Dimensions of the grip:
- (A) Front edge height = 1.074 inch
- (B) Overall height = 3.33 inch
- (C) Width of base = 2.25 inch
- (D) Center of front edge to rear edge = 1.76 inch
- (E) Width of flat on top of grip = 1.019 inch
If you don't send a tracing, then you agree to be responsible for measuring your gun frame and comparing to the above dimensions. If the grip does not fit your gun frame, and you did not send a tracing, there is no warranty return. I can only send what you order unless I have your accurate tracing to compare with the mold, and see if it fits. If not, I can find another mold that will be at least as large or slightly larger so you can fit it perfectly by sanding the edges (instructions provided).
If you DO send a tracing, then I have something to work with and can take the responsibility of helping provide a grip that matches the tracing with a little extra for fitting purposes. I really want you to have the right grip size and shape the first time around, which is why I stress the importance of a tracing. It's quick and easy to make: use a 3 x 5 index or recipe card, press the corner up into the frame with the grips removed and the back strap re-tightened, and run a sharp pencil round the part of the frame that you can trace, leaving the top and front corner to fit into the step behind the trigger guard and under the hammer area. Then cut out the tracing to make a paper grip and trim it so it fits your gun just like you want the new grip to fit. Mail the cut-out tracing (regular 1st class envelope is fine, no point spending more on fancy packaging) and check the box that says you are sending a tracing. Write the order number assigned by the web store on the tracing so I can match it to your order more easily.
That's all it takes. If you have screw mounted 2-piece grips, it's even easier: place the grips on a 3 x 5 index card and run a pencil around them, and mark the screw hole (poke the screw through against the tracing and turn it to make a mark).
Please note that not every example of the same make and model of revolver have exactly the same size/shape of grip frame! How I wish it were true, but it isn't. Sometimes a person can open five new boxes of the same model gun and none of the grips from any of them will fit correctly on any of the others. They "fit" if you ignore gaps and hang-over edges, but most people who buy new custom grips look a lot harder at the fit than they do on the original grips that came with the gun! So naturally, you'll pay more attention if the new grips are just a hair smaller here and there than the frame... even if the originals were also less than perfect fit. If the new grips are just slightly larger than the frame, you can easily sand them to exact fit by following the procedure on the instructions which are sent with each set (and are available on this web store as well).
Fortunately, I have dozens of different size and shape SAA 1873 style grip molds and at least one of them probably fits or is easily sanded to fit your gun. The pattern or tracing helps me find which one to use so your grips are the proper size for a good fitting. The grips ARE sold as grip kits, as per the business name, and most of them do require some fitting, but that is how you get perfection. Not difficult, just requires a little careful sanding with a fingernail sanding board.
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