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Tanfoglio GT27/FIE-Titan 25acp (7E)
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Quantity in Basket:
None
Code: FIE_7E
Price: $68.00
Shipping Weight: 0.20 pounds
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This is a set of smooth grips for the 25 ACP pocket pistol
made by Tanfoglio. There were also 22 Short versions. Originals imported as finished products
from Italy, before the 1986 gun control act, had steel frames
and slides. Then, EXCAM (a Florida-based importer) brought
in the components such as the slide but manufactured an aluminum
lower component or frame. These are marked "Excam" on the
barrel and re-stamped on the slide along with the Tanfoglio
and GT-27 original markings. After a time, Excam ceased
production and import of parts.
Finally, Firearms Import Export company, or FIE, began
bringing in components from Tanfoglio and manufacturing
the frame from a zinc alloy which is usually referred to
as "pot metal". It has fairly low strength and low resistance
to wear and galling compared to steel, but can be more
easily cast at lower cost than aluminum. But these latter
versions of the GT-27, known as the FIE TITAN, developed
a somewhat lower quality reputation than the two previous
incarnations (which, generally, were reliable guns).
In any case, these grips should work with any of the three
versions regardless of the name. All were basically the
same as the Tanfoglio except for the frame material and
worksmanship or method of production. The gun is similar in
some ways to a tip-barrel Beretta but the barrel does not
tip. This is an exposed hammer pistol, with a half-cock
notch, and while not quite up to the firing-pin block
safety standards of modern pistols, is fairly robust as
far as not going off when it isn't supposed to. The hammer
has to fall to strike the firing pin, so sear tip breakage
would have to occur with the hammer cocked fully for an
accidental discharge to take place, or else the gun would
have to be dropped on the hammer, snapping the sear so that
the hammer could be driven against the firing pin hard
enough to fire the cartridge...less likely than with the
Browning/Colt 1903, 1908 and 1910 models using spring loaded
striker held by the sear only, and all the safety machanisms
being solely to prevent movement of the sear. Failure of
the tip of the small sear would release the striker, no
matter if the safeties were all functioning, in those designs.
In any case, here are the grip dimensions:
- Width across the top flat area of the right grip = 1.4 inches
- Width across the top flat area of the left grip = 1.1 inches
- Length of front edge, right grip = 2.4 inches
- (Left grip front edge is full of curves)
- Width across widest part of the base parallel to flat bottom = 1.5 inches
- Height of screw hole center from flat base = 1.2 inches
- Width of right grip across screw hole = 1.4 inches
- Width across widest part of left grip = 1.65 inches
- Overall height of both grips 90-degrees to flat top = 2.4 inches
- Widest part of right grip near top = 1.5 inches
Please note: You can select two different mounting
methods. The grip frames generally are threaded and
use two separate screws with about .365 total length
including a 0.106 thick head, which fits into a .278 hole
diameter, with the thread passing through a 0.121 hole
in the grip. This is the same basic hole found in a thick
1911 Colt grip other than the lack of a 1/4-inch hole for
the mounting stud.
However, if you prefer, I can provide two 5-40 x 1/4 inch
fillister head screws, with a much smaller hole for the
head diameter. If you have lost the original screws or
if they are damaged, the new stainless steel screws will
work fine and look nice. BUT you cannot use the original
screws if you elect to have the holes made for the smaller
fillister head screws, without enlarging the hole for the
countersunk portion (the head). Default is to use the
5-40 x 1/4 screws.
Just click the option you want, above. If you leave it
as shown, the grips will have the holes sized for two
new 5-40 x 1/4 fillisters and the screws will be provided. If you select the optional factory holes
instead, then you won't be able to install the 2-56 kit
later because those holes are too large.
These grips are prevented from moving about the screw
by a pin that passes through the frame and projects a little
on either side. You simply "paint" the tip of the pin
with a Magic marker and press the grips against the gun,
with the screw in place. A dot on the back of the grip
then is transferred, and you make a small, shallow hole
with a hand-turned drill bit or a little Moto-Tool bit
where the dot indicates. If you get it too large or off
the right position, you can fill it with a drop of epoxy
glue, let it harden, and try again. If you wipe some
Vasoline on the gun frame, you can even use the not-quite-
hard epoxy as a mold, pressing the grip on the gun before
the glue is completely firm, so the pin makes its own
hole.
Another good method is to mark the cut-out in the frame
with the grip temporarily mounted (use a pencil through
the frame from the other side). Then remove the grip,
and put a small pin or screw hole in the grip near this
line, so that the pin or head of the screw will bear
against the frame edge and keep the grip from turning.
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