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Kit Levels
  • Blocks (rectangles, wedges, geometric shapes)
  • Grip Blanks (shaped like a grip but not for any specific model)
  • Generic Grips (shaped for a general style but not a specific gun)
  • Semi-Finished Grips (90%+ shaped for a specific gun)
The following illustrates these styles and variations:
(Not all grips come in all variations. This is simply to illustrate what is meant by a block, a blank, a generic grip, or a semi-finished kit. Most of the listings are for the 90% semi-finished kits.)
2.7 x 1.2 inch block
Used for knife scales, making your own grips or art projects, a block would be considered 0-percent finished as a grip kit. You draw the outline on it, saw it to rough shape, file and sand it to approximate shape, carefully refine the shape, and progressively sand and polish to achieve the desired finish.

You can get blocks in any color or effect (such as pearl, amber, metallics, ivory, etc.). There is no point in having screw mounting hardware or medallions installed, of course. This must wait until the grip is at least 90% finished. Blocks are generally rectangular, but could be round or oval for grip caps and spacers.

The line blurs between spacers and oval blocks, but rounded edged grip cap blanks are closer to the generic grip...not that it matters what you call it, of course. Blocks are quite generic...they don't necessarily fit anything, but they might be made to fit a vast range of different guns provided they are large enough. Some blocks are used for knife scales or for special projects having nothing to do with gun grips.
Grip Blanks
Revolver Grip Blank
Made with a shape more generalized for a style of gun, but not for a specific model or brand. These are square edged blocks which may be tapered and shaped to save material and time, giving you less work to do to shape them for a revolver or semi-auto of a general size or shape. The screw mounting holes and medallions cannot be installed at this stage.

Like the blocks and grip kits, you can order in any color or effect. These might be considered about 10% finished, with 90% of the work left to do. If you know your final grip will fit the outline and style of the blank (by comparing measurements) the blank will save time since it is closer to the final shape. The blanks differ from generic grips in not being curved or even roughly sanded to thickness and edge shape. They differ from blocks in being more closely cut out to the size and more closely tapered in general thickness.
Generic Grips
Generic Single Action Grip Blank
Made with a shape generalized for a possible brand or model but large enough so nearly any version ought to work. For instance, you could get a generic Single Action Colt grip, which already has much of the shaping and sculpting finished, but is large enough to fit almost any clone of a wide range of SAA Colts. You would make a template (cut from stiff paper) that fits your gun, place it on the back of the generic grip and trace around the outline, then sand to this line.

The thickness, shaping and fitting as well as the hole location would be up to you. A mounting hole could be made before shipping ONLY if you send a template or tracing that indicates the final size and the hole location. Same with medallion mounting. Otherwise the hole or medallion might be too close to the edge in the final shape.

Different generic grips are offered for specific kinds of gun, such as generic two-panel full size autos, generic pocket pistols, generic grip caps and even generic sizes for Ruger Super Blackhawks or Freedom Arms revolvers. You may need to do some sawing or disk sanding at the base or top, to change angles or reduce height. Generics may work with completely different models, such as the Colt 1860 Army long frame and the Freedom Arms M83.
90% Finished Grip Kits
Ruger MkII/MkIII Target Grip Kit
These require the last 10% of the work to precisely fit the grip to your gun, such as sanding to exact shape, drilling any required mounting pin holes in the back, possibly routing out clearance slots for the controls, securing a spacer block on the back to keep small auto grips from turning, and sanding to finish the surface to your desired level. You may also wish to sand the thickness, and can chose to have screws mounted or not, for most double and single action revolvers.

The amount of work remaining ranges from almost nothing to a couple of hours (depending on how shiny and slick you want the surface, and the particular model of grip). There is a little cross-over, sometimes, between a grip kit and a generic grip or blank. Some shapes and models that are sold as generic actually can work just fine with no more fitting and finish than some of the semi-finished grips. Some grip kits actually fit more than one model of gun, so in a sense they might be considered "generic" also
More blocks...
7 x 2 inch block
More grip blanks...
Large Frame Semi-Auto Blanks
More generic grips...
Generic Derringer Grips
90% Finished Grip Kits
Colt Pony Grip Kit
More blocks...
3-inch block pairs
More grip blanks...
Large Revolver Grip Blank
More generic grips...
Generic Oval Grip Cap
90% Finished Grip Kits
Colt 1911 45 Auto Grip Kit
More blocks...
7-inch block
More grip blanks...
Spacer blank for single actions
More generic grips...
Generic S&W Top Break
90% Finished Grip Kits
S&W Regulation Police Square Butt
More blocks...
2.7 x 1.2 block in orange pearl
More grip blanks...
Spacer blank for grip caps
More generic grips...
Generic 1860 Colt or Freedom Arms grip
90% Finished Grip Kits
1955 Browning grip kit