General Info About What You Are Ordering...
- Tombstone Gun Grip Kits are 90% finished kits that YOU fit to your gun, saving money and getting the fit precisely right.
This is something that is not possible without the gun in hand. I do NOT accept firearms for fitting.
Tombstone kits save you money, provide you with stronger material than the factory does, and make it possible to get as good a fit
as possible, and offer a huge variety of grips for guns that are discontinued, or not popular enough for
mass production. I can make any of the grips in any of the listed colors, translucent affects, or with any of the
listed medallions that fit that grip, to your order as specified on the option listings for each grip.
- Tombstone Gun grips are all semi-finished kits with flat backs. Grips that need spacers or raised portions
come with them as separate items that you fit to the gun frame and epoxy glue to the back of the grip.
Grips that need relief cuts may have them started but usually you will need to use a little rotary bit tool (Dremel, for instance)
and make them yourself, to fit your gun. This is NOT a reason to complain:
I'm telling you up front that is how the grips will come, so if it isn't satisfactory, just don't order them.
- The grips are made of high strength polyurethane resin epoxy. The description is for the COLOR, not the material.
They are NOT made of actual walnut, ebony, pearl, ivory, gold, or amber.
I do not have time to carve grips to order. I cast them in molds. The shape and size is what you see listed. I can mix special
colors and effects, however, for one of a kind combinations of grip model, color, and medallions. The combinations are astronomical.
- A Tombstone Grip is not a hollow skeleton "skin" with bracing, like many of the broken grips customers wish to replace. It
is a solid grip, strong and tough.
- The polyurethane is made in small lots for each grip. It is a high temperature, high strength material which does not fade,
warp, melt, crack, burn, or chip with moderately hot temperatures, as do
factory injection-molded thermoplastics or natural wood grips.
- Grips are what you see listed and shown, except for color and medallion options:
- Examine the picture, description and dimensions carefully BEFORE you order!
- Compare to your gun.
- If it obviously is different, don't order that one! It won't change when you get it.
- If you order checkered, you get checkered. If you want a smooth grip, find a listing for a smooth grip.
- If I don't show the style you want, I don't have it yet.
- Each grip comes from a mold. It can't be changed to checkered, smooth, different shape, etc.
- I do not checker the grips to custom order. If they are shown as checkered, they are as shown.
- If a grip is shown as smooth, that's what you will receive if you order it.
- Grips are flat backed and may need some work for clearances or alignment pin hole.
- These are 90% finished kits, so you may want to do some polishing, sanding.
- Instructions are provided both on the website and in print, with each grip sent.
- I can not change the grip from checkered to smooth, or smooth to checkered, even if you order a pearl
effect that would look much better in a smooth finish and probably not so good in a checkered finish.
I send whatever you order.
I recommend selecting a smooth grip to see the depth and beauty of the translucent effects like pearl,
amber, etc. You will get whatever you order and it is NOT a warranty issue if you don't like the appearance of
pearl with checkering over it. Be SURE you read the information here and don't assume things that are not true.
The terms shown here are long and detailed because of the 1/2 of 1% of people who cause 100% of the trouble should
I fail to mention even the most obvious facts. I know this is NOT necessary for most of my customers!
Just a handful of non-readers need it, which is ironic, since they won't read it anyway...
The grip kit will match or be slightly larger than the template or tracing you send, to allow you to
sand the grip panels to a proper fit for your gun. If you send a tracing or template, I will send a
grip that matches or covers the outline. I don't fit the kit to your gun. You do that because you have the gun in hand.
You may need to do some routing or drill a pin alignment hole in the back of the grip to exactly match your gun,
depending on the model. I install the press-fit nut and ferrule by default, if the grip comes with one,
unless you check the box to tell me not to. If a grip uses screws that thread into the frame of the gun,
rather than passing through and matching a press-fit nut in the other grip, you will need to use the screws that came
with your gun (or buy new ones from Brownells or Numrich, etc. if they have been lost).
I only have the screw mount kits you see listed under the hardware category. I do not have factory original screws to sell.
The back of the grip panel is FLAT as shipped. Raised areas are usually supplied as spacers that you fit and glue
to the back of the grip with epoxy glue. Cavities or clearance grooves are cut using a Dremel or other rotary tool,
if needed. I provide spacers for grips that need them, such as the spacer that joins two panels to create a 1-piece
single action grip.
The 1-piece grip can only be used on guns which have a removable back strap (not, for instance, Ruger
single actions with solid grip frames). Most Colt Single Actions and clones thereof have a removable back strap.
Solid grip frame guns do not.
If you order a specific grip but send a tracing or note that would require a different grip, the order cannot be
started until I know what you really want. I will contact you about it by e-mail.
If you order a solid color option, such as pink or blue grips, and ALSO order a pearl or other translucent color option,
then the second option is the one I will assume you meant. Don't order both solid and translucent colors for the same item!
Leave the "solid" color at
ivory, or select the "use pearl" option, if you select a translucent effect on the next drop-down menu.
Ordering both solid and pearl at the same time for the same grip makes no sense. It is one thing or the other.
Can't have a four-man trio or a married bachelor or a pregnant virgin or ... well, you get it.
A translucent opaque grip is the same contradiction in terms.
If you order both a 1-piece kit (which is two grip panels and a spacer, 3 parts, which you assemble into a one-piece grip)
AND you also order a mounting screw installed, I will have to contact you before starting to see which you really want.
Two-part grip sets have a nut and ferrule installed and are clamped together on the gun with a screw.
One-part grip kits don't use a screw, but are assembled (by you, after fitting to your gun) into a single screwless grip
for early Colts and a very few other early revolvers.
The Colt Walker or 1860 Army is a good example of a 1-piece kit (3 parts when shipped).
The Colt 1873 Single Action Army (Model P) can use either
a screw mounted 2-part grip or a screwless 1-piece kit. Modern Ruger revolvers have solid frames and
thus can ONLY use the 2-part scres mount grips. Check one or the other, not both!
If you order medallions installed on the grips, the medallions will be located where experience
indicates most people would prefer them, and/or where they will fit best, unless you give specific
detailed instructions as to the location, orientation, depth, etc. Any parameter that is not provided
by you will be left to my discretion. (Some listings have optional choices shown, such as the Nagant.)
If you send a drawing and tell me you want the medallion centered on a point indicated on that drawing,
then I will do it if possible. Otherwise, I'll do what I would want if it were my gun.
Bottom line: In the absence of specific instructions specifying a different location, medallion location is not a
reason to return the grips.
Some grips are too small for the larger size medallions. If you order a medallion too large for a
certain grip, I will let you know. Some grips have only smaller medallions listed as options, and some
have no medallions listed as options. There is a good reason.
I do NOT install customer-provided medallions in any grips, yours or mine. I do not work on customer-provided existing
Why not? Well, if I make an error on my grips or with my own medallions, it's my problem and I make another grip for you at
my cost. But if I lose, break, or ding up your item, then what? I can't make another one appear out of thin air.
I really don't have time to take the risk, and you really don't want to take it, either!
I know what my own medallions are made of, how to mount them, and I have custom tools made to fit.
I have no clue about some medallion a client may wish to send until I see it.
Some medallions are just not practical to install in grips. I don't make exceptions. Been there, done that,
learned the lesson!
If you want some special medallion, it doesn't hurt to ask. I normally just have what you see listed on my webstore.
But sometimes I
can find a special one for you. I do not have time to do elaborate inletting of odd shaped medallions, however...just
shapes that fit a round hole.
The medallions listed are available installed at no extra cost if you order them with a grip, or in pairs if you want them
purposes. If you order separate medallions (in pairs, only) then order from the MEDALLIONS category, not with the grip kit.
Otherwise I will assume you want them installed in that grip.
Medallions come from many sources, some manufactured to my order and some that exist for other purposes that I buy and stock.
As such they have different sorts of backs for mounting. Some have screw stud backs, others are flat, and some may have
pins or other kinds of mountings. There is no choice of the kind of back: each medallion is made the way it is.
Don't order a medallion with a flat back and ask me to make it with a screw stud back -- can't do it.
All of them can be mounted in a round hole, but the screw stud type use a smaller hole to clear the stud.
Five-minute epoxy is generally used to mount all of them, regardless.
Tracings and Templates
A tracing is an outline of your existing, presumably properly fitting grips, made by
removing your grips, placing them backside down against a 3 x 5 inch index card, and drawing around them with a pencil
as accurately as you can. Mark the location of the screw hole or holes also, since that tells me exactly where it is on your gun.
(If you do not mark the hole location, I have to go by averages for that model, which may vary somewhat from your gun, but it isn't a warranty issue unless I had the tracing to guide me.)
Click here to see tracing page.
For one-piece grips, you have to remove the grip frame from the gun to remove the grips. But it is difficult to make a
tracing around the grip itself. In that case, re-assemble the frame without the grip, and then trace the frame itself,
and cut out your tracing to see if it fits on the frame just as you want me to make the grip fit (outline). I will make
sure that the two grip panels I send you more than cover this template, so there is a little extra for perfect fitting.
With the 1-piece grip (3 part kit) you will receive two panels and a spacer. The spacer can be sanded for width and if
needed you can file or sand to clear the hammer spring or any special projections inside the frame. Most single actions
that have removable backstraps will work fine with the standard comma-shaped spacer, but you'll need to sand the thickness
to match your frame.
A template is a 3 x 5 index card cut out to be the same shape and size as the backside of your grip, so it would fit
on your gun exactly the way you want the grip to fit. If you don't have a grip, you can make a template and trim it to
fit your gun. You can tape pieces onto the template to patch it, so long as the final shape fits your gun exactly.
Templates are easier than tracings for some guns, like the 1-piece style grip used on early Colts.
I need the ACTUAL template or tracing, NOT a fax, NOT an email image, NOT a photograph, NOT a copier image of the gun grip.
All these electronic images introduce distortion, and we are looking for as close to exact shape and size as possible.
I will assume your tracing or template is just a little larger than the actual grip, but it does not matter, since
I want to send you a grip that allows for a little sanding and fitting.
Don't make a tracing on a corrugated cardboard sheet, please! The stiffness and thickness of a business card or a 3 x 5
index card is perfect. Or the stiff white paper used to display men's shirts works fine. It's all about the same material.
Makes it easy to cut out, hold to the back of a grip, and compare edge sizes and shape, which is exactly what I do with it.
You do NOT need to send the tracings by costly special handling mail. Just drop them in a normal 1st class letter envelope,
but make sure your order number, name, and the gun or the grip model you like is written somewhere on them or in a note with them.
If you didn't order yet, please say "no order pending" on the tracing so I won't look for an order yet. If you send an order
later on the webstore, be sure to check the right box on the listing page for whether or not you already sent a grip, or intend to
If you sent a tracing long ago and forgot to order for a while, I may not have the tracing by that time. I can't keep them much
longer than month without an order, because there are thousands of them to keep track of and one of me to do it!
If it has been a while, email and check with me to see if I still have your tracing, or just send another one.
Each listing has a check box that you must select for either "I am sending a tracing" or "I am NOT sending a tracing" or
"I already sent a tracing previously". If you say you are sending one, I will wait for it to arrive before making your grips.
If it doesn't arrive in a reasonable time, I will try to contact you and see if you really sent it or if it got lost in the mail.
If I get no answer and no tracing, but the grip is paid for, I will ship the model you ordered as if you had checked that you were
not sending a tracing.
If you check the box that says you are NOT sending a tracing, I will put your order in the "to do" stack and make it as
soon as possible. If a tracing comes anyway, I will try to match it to your order before the order is made. But unless you
contacted me and let me know you will be sending a tracing after all, I have to go by your original indication, on the order, that you were NOT sending one. I believe what you put on the order!
If your order is completed and shipped and THEN your tracing shows up, when you said none would be sent, it's too late. That will have no effect on the order: the grip will be the one you ordered, whether or not it fits your tracing, since I didn't have it before it was sent and you said it wasn't coming. Please double check which option you check, and follow through according to what you said. It's for your own benefit, after all.
The TIME for delivery is not a fixed number of days or weeks or months. It is an average based on how many orders I have and how much time I may have to do them in a given period. But if you wait 90 days before you send me a tracing, when you had checked the box telling me to wait for a tracing, then the order isn't put into the "to do" stack until the tracing shows up.
The average delivery time STARTS when I receive the tracing, not when you placed the order on line (if you said you were sending one). That's only right: I don't have an order I can work on until you do send the tracing. And you may never send one after all. So at that point, all I can do is wait for you. The clock doesn't start until you do your part. Then it's up to me to do mine.
If you check the box saying you will NOT send a tracing, fine. I can start the planning and get the grip order in the queue as soon as I get your order off the web store. I'll make and send
it as soon as I can and will NOT be expecting a tracing. Whatever your order says, that's what the agreement will be.
If you mark various relief cuts, alignment pin holes, etc., on the back of the tracing or template, I still ship the flat backed grip kit as advertised. The reason I don't make these holes and cuts is that without the actual gun in hand to first sand and fit the grip, those cuts and holes may not align once the grip is actually fitted to the gun. They are easy to make: just "paint" the projecting pin with a Marker Pen, press the fitted grip to the gun, and a dot of ink shows you where to make the little hole.
Some people send their original grips instead of a tracing or template. That's fine but you are risking loss in the mail. Usually a tracing or template will be just fine with no risk. If you want to send original grips, that works for me. If they go missing in the mail, I guess it has to work for you since it's not my decision to send them to me. A template or tracing is safer.
I cannot tell you which of my grips might fit your Belgian copy of a Browning 1908, or your Spanish Eibar copy of a 1911 Colt or which set of 1873 grips fits any given brand of Colt clone...there is just too much variation even in the same model and brand from one lot to another. Usually the reason I have several grips listed is that out of five different examples, I found five different shapes and sizes needed to exactly fit each one.
The 1858 Remington clones are all over the place on size and shape, like snowflakes (no two alike). I really need that tracing if you want the grip that fits your gun. (I give measurements on each grip, but it's up to you to use them before ordering.)
The thickness of the grips is adjustable, by you, simply by securing a piece of sandpaper on a flat board and rubbing the grip back against it. Grips may be adjusted so that one is thicker, which is sometimes highly desirable to fill the palm and allow the fingertips to more easily grasp the other side. Some grips are made with the right side thicker than the left, for right handed shooters, and are so indicated on the listing.
The finish of the grips can be left with a faint matte effect or polished to a high sheen, as you wish. This is done as part of the final 10% of the work, because any fitting and sanding would require a follow-up polishing, making it a waste of time to do that before sending them. Most people find them satisfactory as received but the material will take a high luster with buffing compound if that is desired.
Instructions are available on the main page of this website, by clicking the appropriate button, and printed instructions are sent with the grips, explaining how to fit and finish them. It is assumed that you will have read the "PLEASE READ BEFORE ORDERING" information BEFORE you buy any product here, so you KNOW what to expect and will NOT order, for instance, a grip listed as a "COLT 1851 NAVY, SMOOTH", with a note that says "Make this fit my Uberti New Army 1875, with checkering like the Uberti Regulator".
The grips are cast in molds. The molds don't respond to commands to suddenly change pattern or shape. All I can do is send what you order, or
send what matches your template or is slightly larger to allow fitting.
Black (ebony) grips can be sanded and fitted like any others, but if you buff them with a little black shoe wax when you are done, and buff firmly enough to warm the wax and drive it into the little surface lines and pores, it will restore the shiny black color in the areas where you have sanded.
Pearl effects are made using a clear polyurethane liquid to which atomized pearl powder is added. Other shades of pearl may have ground 24k gold dust, silver or titanium or copper powder, ground sea shell (nacre), and other materials to give the desired effect. The translucent effects shimmer and show depth and figure on a smooth surface grip, but may be obscured by carving or checkering. Just be aware of this. It isn't a "defect" but a fact of physics.
You get a more dull look peering through a checkered surface into a translucent material. Likewise, these are NOT made by injection molding a thermosetting plastic, but by pouring a mixture that sets up hard in a few seconds and is then cured in a furnace for an hour or so. So they will NOT be as "slick" as a cheap plastic toy on the surface. They have actual tiny air bubbles entrained that reflect light and give the desired effect. You can polish and buff them to a high gloss if you like.
The material is easy to sand, drill, carve, scrimshaw, saw and otherwise shape with the same tools you might use for wood. But it has no grain and does not tend to misdirect your tool bit, or split and chip like wood, bone, real ivory or pearl. It is not "brittle" but is tough and heat resistant to about 400-degrees F. It will be come softer with heat and then harden up again, but it doesn't tend to warp, curl, fade and check like the natural materials it simulates, or like factory grips. However, you can melt spots on it from high speed sanding or buffing. Go easy on the power equipment. Light pressure and gentle movement works best. Take your time and get it right.
Delivery time depends on the backlog of orders already waiting, the things I have to do other than make grips, and health issues. I am not a young person, and I make grips on the weekends as an enjoyable hobby, not as a full time business. I only have so many hours a week to make grips, and each week a great many new orders come flooding in.
Average delivery time may take 60-90 days, except during peak order periods when it can take longer.
Sometimes folks email to say "It has been 90 days! Where are my grips??". Well, if you have not received them yet, they are probably in the queue behind a few others that came in first, and I have not had time to finish them yet. BUT I am always happy to check and make sure I have the order, that it isn't holding for a tracing or was finished and the bank card was declined and I didn't get a response about it. Those are the other reasons a grip might take longer than average.
But please, if you think that "60-90 days average time" means "exactly 90 days deadline", look up the definition of "average"! I have no clue exactly how many hours it will take to finish the hundreds of jobs already in the pending file before your order was received, and I have no clue whether I'll get ill and have to take a weekend off, or whether something else may come up that slows down the work... or conversely, whether a lot of prior orders will be quick, easy jobs that get done far ahead of average and move yours up the list considerably.
All I can say is what the typical, average delivery has been recently, not what it will be in the future. My crystal ball isn't working that well. Please don't upset yourself with unrealistic expectations: if delivery time is a life and death issue for you, refrain from ordering and risking your life on the possibility that the order may take longer! It's a grip, not a pace maker...
I do the best I can, and I want the grips to ship just as much as you do, maybe more so. Just have a LOT of grips to make, constantly have more coming in and plenty of clients who have been waiting much longer than the one whose order just came in!
No charge is made on a bank card until the grips are ready to ship, so if you see a charge from "Corbin Mfg", for the price of your grips, that's Tombstone getting ready to mail them out. If you cancel an order that uses a bank card, no charge was made when you placed the order, so of course there is no refund to be made at that point. If you cancel an order made with PayPal or by sending a check, I'll send a PayPal refund or refund your check once it has cleared, or mail it back if I have not yet deposited it.
I don't like to leave undeposited checks sitting around, but there's no problem sending a refund if I have not sent the grips yet. If you would like to cancel an order, please tell me asap and there will be no problem. Don't file a claim or start a dispute or act like I'm a crook trying to keep your money...I'm not, and I have more than enough to do without trying to hold onto an order you don't want me to make! It doesn't happen often, but it is fast and easy: just tell me. I'll take care of it.
If you need your grips sooner, check the "Specials" page for available items -- or order them sooner! I can't do anything about "rush orders". I am one person, doing all I can to finish the orders as soon as possible. It wouldn't be fair to take special payment to put one customer ahead of another. I can make about 10 grips a day and that's what I do.
Almost everyone wants their order yesterday and believes it is urgent, for a birthday gift, a retiring general, the President of a gun company or a bribe to get their cousin out of a third-world country lock-up! I wouldn't put someone who whines more ahead of YOUR order, so please don't ask me to put yours ahead of another person's older order.
Sometimes you may receive an order far ahead of the average delivery time. This usually happens when I made an extra grip that happens to match your order, or when someone else cancelled or didn't pay after I got it made. It is not something I can plan. I have more than 450 different grip molds, each of which can be made in any of dozens of colors and special effects, and be equipped with any of dozens of medallions. The possible combinations are mind-boggling, and it's just good luck if I have an extra set that matches what you ordered. But it's great when that happens!
Every grip kit, blank, or block listed on the websore is built to order for the color and pearl effects you select. They are NOT stock items except for those listed in the "specials" category. I make any grip in any of the colors listed, and install any of the listed medallions. In that respect, every grip order is custom.
The concept behind Tombstone Grip Kits is to make hard-to-find grips, in one-off combinations of colors and medallions, from very high strength, heat-resistant, high performance polymers that are superior to injection molded, mass-produced thermosetting plastic grips, but to hold the cost down by letting YOU do the final 10% of the fit and finish, and by making the grips in standard pattern molds to reduce the amount of expensive hand work required.
It is not to custom carve, checker, engrave, or otherwise do the work that a stockmaker or gunsmith might do for you, at much greater time and cost. Reasonable cost is the goal.
I do NOT do custom checkering, carve hand-built grips of wood or other natural materials, or do other things that require a great deal of hand labor. There are two reasons.
I can't make 10 grips a day and hand carve or custom engrave or hand checker some of them. Just one grip might take as long to finish that way as the 10 that I normally finish in a day. Do you want to pay 10 times as much in order to replace those sales, just so I can use the time entirely to make one set for you? Probably not. Even if so, it would not be fair to all the other folks who already are waiting. Hire a custom stock maker or gunsmith for that work. Hire me for what I offer here. Or buy a replacement from a mass producer if you want a rubber, wood, or another fragile thermo-setting plastic grip like the one that just broke!
First, it would run the price much higher per grip.
Second, it would use more time than I have available.
Bottom line: I offer exactly what you see listed. If it isn't listed, I don't have it yet. I add more grips all the time, but each one I add costs me between $250 and $350 dollars for the model, the mold making, testing, possible remaking, until I have a working mold. If you want a one-off grip I do not have, let me know what it is and I will keep track of what people are asking for. When I get enough "wish you made it" requests for a certain standard shape and pattern, I'll make a mold if I can.
Not all grips lend themselves to my open top molding method. Flat back grips are fine. Complex multi-level grip backs are tough or even impossible to mold this way. I do not make grips of any material except high strength, high temp polyurethane resin, poured in molds, cured in an oven, and provided as 90% finished kits for you to fit and finish. I don't fit and finish them for you as you have the gun, not me, and I'm holding the cost as low as I can for the high grade material used. I don't know how to make it any more clear than that. But I repeat it a dozen times a day in answer to those questions.
You can pay by check, money order, Visa or Mastercard, or PayPal. Of course, I prefer money orders but please use whatever is convenient. You can pay "on line" securely, on the web store. If you select PayPal, it makes the charge immediately since that's just how PayPal works. If you select a bank card, I do not charge the card until I think I'll be likely to have your grip done within a week or two.
I run the card through a secure terminal, by hand, at my manufacturing facility for the dies, so you will see "Corbin Manufacturing" on the statement, not "Tombstone Gun Grips". I do this because we've run millions of dollars securely through the former and deal with government agencies, major firms in the firearms industry, and others with high security requirements on card transactions. We maintain top level certification and security there, so I see no reason to spend the same again for a hobby business. It sometimes causes concern if a customer has not read this, because they didn't order anything from Corbin, but a phone call always explains quickly.
If you have a problem, email me right away. I may be on the road or unable to respond for a day or two sometimes, but most of the time I will answer within 24 hours. DO NOT START A PAYPAL DISPUTE as your first reaction. DO NOT CALL YOUR BANK to protest a card charge as your first reaction. Those things are expensive, time consuming, and unnecessary.
If you just contact me first, we can solve anything easily without a lot of time or trouble. I try to explain EVERY POSSIBLE issue that people might mistakenly think are errors when they are not, right here, right now. Any actual or perceived problems I will handle quickly and fairly if given the opportunity.
It is always best to place your order on the webstore. If you send me an email order, it may get "spammed" out or lost in the thousand or more emails received every single day. I answer the ones that need answers, but I have a hard time keeping track of what they said a week later, when a letter comes and says "as per my email" instead of telling me the details again.
I get a LOT of letters, too. If they refer to an order number, assigned by the webstore as an invoice that is emailed to you when you order, I can track it down fairly easily. If the letter just says you want to modify the color to aged ivory and not a lot else, I am lost. I have to spend a long time trying to track down your name and address in emails, earlier letters, on line, etc., and I might not find it. PLEASE ORDER ON THE WEBSTORE! It makes your order go faster with less chance of problems.
If you indicate you are sending a check or money order on the webstore, I will print off your order and hold it to match to your letter with the payment. PLEASE write the order or invoice number (same thing) either on the check or in the paper you send with the check. That is what sorts and locates all orders quickly.
When you order something that isn't needed such as a mounting screw kit for a grip that already has one included, I'll let you know and refund or just not charge for the unnecessary item. If you order from another country and indicate USA shipping, I will contact you and let you know that I cannot ship out of the USA for the price of domestic delivery. You will need to provide the difference in shipping or tell me a USA location to which I can ship. Otherwise I have to cancel the order.
If you order from the USA but indicate International Shipping, I will let you know that you will have overpaid using PayPal already, or that I won't be charging you for the much higher cost of out-of-country shipping. If I can't reach you I will just charge what it should cost, which is considerably less. You don't have to worry about that sort of error as I will catch it and fix it for you.
If you order a grip and then use the "note" section on the order to describe something that can't be done with that grip (like, ordering a Colt 1911 stag grip and asking me to make it for a Star or Llama or Ballester-Mollina) I will try to contact you about it and see if you want to order one of the listed grips for the gun you actually have, or if you want to cancel. If I can't reach you I will just cancel it and refund any payment. Normally a bank card payment isn't charged until I'm sure I can do the order, so that would just not be run and there would be no refund due.
If you order a grip by the description, check the box saying you are NOT sending a tracing and agree to be responsible for the size and fit, but use the "note" to tell me it has to fit some particular model variation or serial number, it has no effect. I don't have a clue what size your particular variation or serial number might use for the grip frame. Gun models and makes have variations in grip frame shape and size.
Some guns like Uberti Cattleman have so many variations that I have made several different grip molds to match various tracings and templates people sent me for the very same make, model, caliber, etc. I have at least a couple of lengths of S&W "N" type frame grips both of which fit different versions of "N" frame guns just fine, even though both are "square butt" versions. In short, read the listing measurements, and compare to your gun (actually measure it, don't just look at it and say, yeah, looks about the same shape).
Please, please don't order if you can't (a) send a tracing, or (b) measure your gun and compare to the dimensions for the grip you order. I don't have time to make the wrong grips. We both want the right ones, right? Only you can assure that happens.
All orders for which a tracing or template was provided are guaranteed to be at least as large as the tracing, and with the holes placed where the tracing indicated within customary and reasonable tolerance. If such a grip is received and it is not at least as large as the tracing provided, it may be returned with 10 days of receipt for any similar value grip desired or a larger version of the same grip. If no larger version is available, and no other grip is desired, refund will be made for price of the grip itself. Otherwise, return shipping of the replacement grip to you will be prepaid by Tombstone.
All orders for which no tracing or template was provided are guaranteed to be at least the dimensions listed for that grip on the webstore. If the grip is at least the size listed, then it is what you ordered and is not returnable. Time and material have been spent to custom build it to your order, based on your checking the box which said you would be responsible for measuring your gun and comparing to the listed specs.
If the grip you receive is SMALLER than the dimensions listed, or is a different catalog number (mold number) from the one you ordered, then Tombstone is responsible and will replace or refund at your option, on return of the grip. I warranty what I can control. I cannot control whether or not you measure and compare. I can compare your template or tracing if you send one, and then I can provide a warranty about the proper size and shape to allow fitting the grip kit properly.
Original shipping cost is not refundable. Warranty refunds are for the cost of the grip. If this is not satisfactory please do not order.
If a drawing is sent that shows a medallion location accurately, and the medallion will fit in that area on the grip selected, the grip is warranted to have the medallion installed in that location. The grip will be replaced with another having the medallion installed as indicated on the drawing if returned within 10 days after receipt.
If no indication is provided initially showning the medallion location desired, then any location will be considered acceptable.
If the screw holes do not line up with the tracing which you sent, and the tracing accurately indicated the screw hole location, the grip will be replaced with one having the screw holes in the proper location provided:
- The grip is returned within 10 days of receipt along with a new tracing showing the screw hole centers. Screw locations for 2-piece screw mount grips using a standard single screw mounting kit are usually flexible so long as the screw does not contact the hammer spring or frame.
All grips are made from high strength, high temperature polyurethane resin. They are not made of wood, ivory or any other materials. The high end polymer used to make Tombstone Grips is much stronger than ivory, pearl, factory thermo-plastic (which is melted, formed, and cooled to hold shape, and can be melted or warped by heat again).
Tombstone grips can be carved, sanded, drilled, scrimshawed, sawed, filed, and polished with less chance of chipping, cracking, and splitting than most other grip materials. There is no actual "grain" in the grip material. It can handle up to 350-degrees F. without melting, which is far higher than your car's dashboard on a summer day. The difference between factory thermoplastic grips and Tombstone polyurethane resin grips is dramatic as far as strength, wear and heat resistance.
Plastic is a term that covers a very wide range of substances and materials. "Cheap" plastic usually means something mass produced using a thermosetting (melt and freeze) material. Exothermic two-part epoxy poymers do not "melt" again. They are formed by mixing two chemical substances to create a reaction that changes the liquids to a solid within a few seconds, releasing heat in the process. The material changes color depending on the additional fillers put into it, so that it can simulate wood, ivory, ebony, amber, or any color of the rainbow. It is far from "cheap" plastic, costing over $100 a gallon.
Mailing tracings or checks
Please mail tracings or checks to:
Tombstone Gun Grips
PO Box 2171
White City, OR 97503 USA
You do NOT need to send tracings in costly mailers. Just drop them in a 1st class envelope. Use 3 x 5 index cards, one for the left and another for the right grip. I cut these out, so please use two index cards rather than putting the tracings on opposite sides of one card. (I use them as templates, to hold to the back of grips or insert into the mold top to compare size/shape, which is why an index card is ideal material -- not too thick, easy to cut and yet stiff enough so it will make a good template).
For some reason, shooters sometimes use corrugated cardboard or styrofoam to make tracings. This is difficult to cut out accurately, and more difficult to mail than a regular 3 x 5 index card. Index cards are often used to record recipes for cooking. If you can't find index cards, then the same kind of thin, stiff paper that is used in displaying shirts, or that is often used to make business cards or cereal boxes or other one-layer paper packaging will be fine. Tracing paper is hard to use, as it is too thin and floppy to hold up to a grip back or a mold.
All I need is a stiff paper template that I can hold up to the back of various grips to see if the grip covers all of it, or to hold in the top of a mold to see if the mold is larger by a small amount. Thin regular paper isn't as good but it works better than corrugated cardboard. Index card paper is the very best. Posterboard is a little thicker but it works OK. I think that somewhere I wrote about cardboard templates, thinking of the kind of cardboard used for index cards (heavy, stiff paper), and that was misinterpreted as being the kind of carton-making cardboard used for cardboard boxes. That's not the right stuff...it's too hard to make a good accurate template from thick materials.
Mail tracings with your order number (if you placed an order first). If you didn't place an order yet, please write "no order pending" on the card so I won't spent a lot of time trying to match it to a non-existent order!
Mail checks however you wish, but generally a regular 1st class envelope is fine. Usually it isn't any major benefit to spend money on registered mail, priority envelopes, etc. However, if you do mail a check PLEASE write your order number somewhere on it or on a note with it. It's tough to keep track of thousands of orders, letters, checks, etc., without the order number, and it is very easy if you provide it.
I strongly encourage you to place all orders through the website, www.TombstoneGrips.com, rather than by mail, email, fax, etc. The reason is that they are much easier to find, print, keep track of, find in the future, and sometimes even just to read compared to a letter. Also, if you order on the webstore, you will SEE and READ (hopefully) information like this. Then you won't be ordering things that can't be done or that I don't do. If you fill out the on-line order, then there is much less chance of misunderstanding what you want, and almost no chance of the order getting lost (they do go missing when sent by mail, email, or fax, sometimes).
If you do need to place an order by mail, please include ALL necessary information in the letter and don't refer to a prior correspondence as the sole way for me to find the information. I probably filed, lost, or erased it by the time your letter arrived! In other words, give me your mailing address, the model of grip you want, the color, whatever medallion you may wish to have installed, whether it is a 1-piece or 2-piece style (spacer or screw kit) if that is appropriate for the kind of grip, and include the tracing even if you already sent a previous one. Tracings that come by themselves without any order, just as inquiries, may or may not be found again when your order/letter actually arrives. Best to send another, since they only take a minute to make. Be sure to indicate screw hole location if appropriate!
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